Delicious
‘Kylie Kwong's new Australian-Cantonese eatery to open in Sydney next week’
18 May 2021
Story Max Brearley
Photography Alan Benson
And yes, the savoury pancakes are making a comeback.
For those who’ve pined for the return of Kylie Kwong to Sydney’s restaurant scene the wait is almost over. Lucky Kwong, a casual Australian-Cantonese eatery, will open on May 25 at South Eveleigh. “For me, Lucky Kwong is all about true nourishment,” says Kwong. “A celebration of everything that I love in life with care, community, collaboration and delicious, life-giving food at its heart.”
Lucky Kwong will be super-casual, warm, welcoming and energetic; a walk-in, no-bookings set-up with limited seating indoors and a focus on takeaway. The informality and accessibility of the new venture isn’t simply a matter of restaurant trends, more a reflection of where Kwong is in life.
“In 2018, after being a restaurateur for almost 20 years I began to feel things shift, I felt an inner restlessness for some months and thus, decided to make significant changes,” says Kwong. “At this stage of my career and life, I want to live in a more balanced and holistic way; one in which food and the whole notion of True Nourishment remains at the centre yet can also equally co-exist with my other great passion, community engagement. I felt so ready for this new way of being, so I set about making these changes, and here we are in 2021 in my new space, Lucky Kwong.”
The name Lucky Kwong is deeply personal, “the name of my wife Nell and my baby son whom we sadly lost in 2012,” she says. “Since this life-changing event I have been on the most extraordinary personal journey which has prompted me to re-focus, re-evaluate, and re-assess. Lucky has taught me about the preciousness of every single moment and to take every opportunity to live a full, rich and meaningful life. My new place is an acknowledgement and celebration of this transformational journey and yes, because I now feel genuinely Lucky.”
In putting together the menu there’s an impressive focus on collaboration with the likes of Palisa Anderson of Boon Luck Farm in Byron Bay, Josh Niland’s Fish Butchery in Paddington and the Wayside Chapel which Kwong has a long involvement with, using honey from her own beehive on the chapel’s organic rooftop garden. There will be “superb biodynamic lamb,” from Tammy Kurtz of Lynden Lamb and biodynamic Cowobbee Beef from Paul Kurtz. “As I have done for the last 15 years, I will be using Barossa Farm Produce to source my chicken,” says Kwong.
Native ingredients have been a key part of Kwong’s culinary journey. Their use at Lucky Kwong, on Gadigal country, will be no exception with help from “proud Cudgenburra and Bundjalung man, Clarence Slockee of Jiwah.” Slockee co-created South Eveleigh’s native urban rooftop garden just 200m from Lucky Kwong. “Integrating the South Eveleigh rooftop bush foods into my Canto-food is a way I can offer an authentic and meaningful version of Australian-Cantonese food,” says Kwong. “I can help continue to convey and share the important story of South Eveleigh and this country’s First Nations people through my food offering.”
So, what can you expect to order? Daily specials highlighting producers will be central, allowing Kwong to bring back some of her own favourites like prawn dumplings, Uncle Jimmy’s noodles and caramelised pork belly with Davidson’s plum. There’ll likely be stir-fried Boon Luck Farm vegetables with tofu, and steamed savoury pancakes topped with Fish Butchery’s yellowfin tuna and XO.
Of those steamed savoury pancakes Kwong says they will be a staple. “Savoury pancakes are universally loved – so versatile, light, fun to eat, delicious. We sold them for 7 years at the Carriageworks Farmers Market and they were a huge success, so it was a no-brainer to bring them back. Everyone loves the down-to-earth vibe of street food. I’ll be offering different special pancake toppings each week which will allow me the chance to showcase my preferred food producers.”
In a restaurant world that is so often driven by trends and scaleable concepts Kwong says that she wants Lucky Kwong to go “beyond being a great gathering place for delicious food,” her vision in tune with her life being that it will nourish and feed people’s spirit and to be a force for good. “It’s a simple and humble offering that is very clear in its intention and motivation to positively contribute to society,” she says. “I want to inspire through the sustainable produce we serve, highlighting native foods, the quality of the art and design, local collaborations with like-minded chefs and colleagues, and continual engagement with the many diverse and dynamic communities surrounding South Eveleigh.”
Lucky Kwong opens Monday to Friday lunchtimes for walk-ins and takeaway from May 25 at 2 Locomotive Street, Eveleigh, Sydney.